Stylists' star-making, brand-building power feted



WEST HOLLYWOOD, Calif. (AP) Dianna Agron may be a sought-after actress, but she'll admit to a little stalking. Not for a plum role for a stylist.

"Not outside her house like a creepy person," the "Glee" star said of her pursuit of stylist Samantha McMillen, "but I knew some of the people that she was dressing and I said I want her."

McMillen was among those honored on the Hollywood Reporter's list of the industry's top 25 stylists. The trade paper doesn't rank the most powerful directors or producers in the industry, but it does recognize the top stylists, whose ability to effect image may be on par with those other big shots.

Stylists aren't just indispensable to stars, they're integral to the whole Hollywood marketing machine. They're curators of living, breathing, world-famous billboards; the key link between fashion brands and actresses and a critical component in how both are seen. In an industry that trades on image, stylists are the most powerful image makers.

This year's style-makers were celebrated at a luncheon Wednesday with Zoe Saldana, Naomi Watts and Reese Witherspoon on the rooftop patio of the private Soho House. Most of those on the list don't have famous names (except maybe for Rachel Zoe, who's third), but their work is seen worldwide in the form of glamorous looks on the most admired stars.

Saldana started working with Petra Flannery while filming "Avatar." The actress said having a stylist is "paramount to a person's image, especially when they work in this business."

"Not only are you respected by what you say, you're also respected and admired and reviewed on how you look, so that said, this is my office," Saldana said, pointing at herself. "You have to kind of see it that way and have fun with it."

Not only do stylists keep celebrities perfectly put together, they know the fashion world's top designers and can get them to custom-make clothes for their big-name clients, as list-topper Leslie Fremar did with Witherspoon's Louis Vuitton gown at last month's Academy Awards. Stylists are catalysts for lucrative partnerships between celebrities and luxury brands, which can elevate the profile of each.

"A dress they put on an actress that becomes talked about will set a fashion trend for the next year, or it'll drive what buyers are buying for major department stores," said Janice Min, editorial director of The Hollywood Reporter. "The decisions made by this small group of women and men in this room amount to millions if not billions of dollars' worth of business in the next year."

Jimmy Choo chief executive Pierre Denis said Hollywood's influence continues to grow globally. No ad campaign or editorial layout can match the impact of the right piece on the right person, and "the stylists, in the end, are the ones actually making style of the actresses," he said.

Though these stylists broker million-dollar looks and deals they still mostly operate behind the scenes, and on their own. The Hollywood Reporter luncheon, held for the first time last year, is a rare gathering.

For stylist Tara Swennen, who counts "The Big Bang Theory" star Kaley Cuoco among her clients, it was a chance to celebrate her work with her colleagues.

"We don't have a union or anything like that yet," she said, "so it's sort of nice to have something cohesive."

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AP Entertainment Writer Sandy Cohen is on Twitter: www.twitter.com/APSandy .

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Online:

www.hollywoodreporter.com

Focus on mission, stay true to the cross, pope tells cardinals



By Philip Pullella and Catherine Hornby

VATICAN CITY (Reuters) - Pope Francis on Friday urged leaders of a Roman Catholic Church riven by scandal and crisis never to give in to discouragement, bitterness or pessimism but to keep focused on their mission.

Since his election on Wednesday as the first non-European pope in nearly 1,300 years, Francis has signaled a sharp change of style from his predecessor, Benedict, and has laid out a clear moral path for the 1.2-billion-member Church, which is beset by scandals, intrigue and strife.

"Let us never give in to the pessimism, to that bitterness, that the devil places before us every day. Let us not give into pessimism and discouragement," he told the cardinals who chose him.

The Vatican on Friday strongly denied accusations by some critics in Argentina that Francis stayed silent during systematic human rights abuses by the former military dictatorship there.

Spokesman Father Federico Lombardi told reporters the accusations "must be clearly and firmly denied".

Critics of Jorge Bergoglio, the former Archbishop of Buenos Aires, allege he failed to protect priests who challenged the dictatorship earlier in his career, during the 1976-1983 "dirty war", and that he has said too little about the complicity of the Church during military rule.

Setting out a clear and forceful moral tone in the early days of his papacy, Francis on Thursday told the cardinals they must stick to the faith's Gospel roots and shun modern temptations, otherwise the Church risked becoming just another charitable group without its divine mission.

Francis has given clear signs already that he will bring a new broom to the crisis-hit papacy, favoring humility and simplicity over pomp and grandeur.

OFF THE CUFF

On Friday he spoke to the cardinals in Italian from a prepared text but often added off-the-cuff comments in what has already become the hallmark of a style in sharp contrast to the stiffer, more formal Benedict.

Francis called the princes of the church "brother cardinals" instead of "lord cardinals" as Benedict did. Lombardi said Francis was still taking his meals with other prelates in the Vatican residence where the cardinals stayed during the conclave. "He just sits down at any table where there is a free spot, with a great sense of ease."

Another notable difference from the formal Benedict is the new pope's outgoing nature and sense of humor.

On Friday, he hugged cardinals, slapped them on the back, broke into animated laughter and blessed religious objects one cardinal pulled out of a plastic shopping bag.

In another sign of humility, Francis stopped cardinals who tried to kneel before him.

But his message was serious. The role of Church elders, including himself, was to set an example and pass on faith and values to younger people without being distracted by the temptations of worldliness.

"We are in old age. Old age is the seat of wisdom," he said, speaking slowly. "Like good wine that becomes better with age, let us pass on to young people the wisdom of life," he said.

STUMBLE

During the meeting on Friday he briefly stumbled as he descended the steps in front of his throne to greet Angelo Sodano, dean of the cardinals, but he quickly recovered his balance.

He made a point of paying tribute to Benedict, who shocked the Church last month by becoming the first pontiff in some 600 years to resign instead of ruling for life, saying he had "lit a flame in the depths of our hearts" with his courage and example.

Morale among the faithful has been hit by a widespread child sex abuse scandal and in-fighting in the Church government or Curia, which many prelates believe needs radical reform.

Francis is seen as having a common touch and the communication skills that the aloof Benedict lacked.

Whereas Benedict delivered his first homily in Latin, laying out his broad vision for the Church, Francis adopted the tone of parish priest, focusing on faith.

"When we walk without the cross, when we build without the cross and when we proclaim Christ without the cross, we are not disciples of the Lord. We are worldly," he told the massed ranks of cardinals clad in gold-colored vestments.

"We may be bishops, priests, cardinals, popes, all of this, but we are not disciples of the Lord (if we don't follow Jesus)," he added, speaking slowly in Italian.

The new pope signaled immediately his intentions for the papacy when he adopted the name of St. Francis of Assisi, who gave up a life of privilege in the 12th century to follow a vocation of poverty.

He urged Argentines not to make costly trips to Rome for his inauguration next week but to give money to the poor instead.

No Vatican watchers had expected the conservative Argentinian to get the nod, and some of the background to the surprise vote has already trickled out, confirming that cardinals wanted a pastoral figure to revitalize the global Church but also someone who would get the dysfunctional Vatican bureaucracy in order.

French Cardinal Jean-Pierre Ricard told reporters: "We were looking for a pope who was spiritual, a shepherd. I think with Cardinal Bergoglio, we have this kind of person. He is also a man of great intellectual character who I believe is also a man of governance."

After more than a millennium of European leadership, the cardinals who chose Francis looked to Latin America, where 42 percent of the world's Catholics live. The continent is more focused on poverty and the rise of evangelical churches than questions of materialism, rising secularism and priestly sexual abuse, which dominate in the West.

Francis' inaugural Mass will be held next Tuesday, with many world leaders expected to attend.

(Editing by Barry Moody and Giles Elgood)

Leonardo proposes to TV presenter partner live on air



ROME (Reuters) - Paris St Germain sports director Leonardo asked his Sky Italia presenter partner Anna Billo to marry him live on air after Friday's Champions League quarter-final draw.

Billo, who was presenting Sky's Italian coverage of the draw in Switzerland, was speaking to Leonardo about PSG's quarter-final pairing with Barcelona when she asked him if he had any questions for the studio panel.

The former Brazil midfielder, a former AC Milan and Inter coach, leapt on the opportunity, saying: "Anna, do you want to marry me?", surprising a clearly embarrassed Billo.

Leonardo, who already has a son with Billo, carried on while everyone in the studio laughed.

"Do you want to marry me? You have to answer me now. I'm waiting for your answer. It's not that difficult," he said.

The shocked but smiling Billo stuttered: "OK... We'll see."

While going to an ad break her microphone remained on and fanning herself with a piece of paper, Billo said: "He's gone mad."

Five years ago, then France coach Raymond Domenech made a similar move, proposing to French TV presenter Estelle Denis in a live interview minutes after Les Bleus had been eliminated in the first round of Euro 2008 with a 2-0 defeat against Italy.

Other Champions League match-ups feature Bayern Munich v Juventus, Malaga v Borussia Dortmund and Real Madrid v Galatasaray.

(Reporting by Terry Daley; Editing by Julien Pretot)

Rail dig may have found London's lost "Black Death" graves



LONDON (Reuters) - Archaeologists said on Friday they had discovered a lost burial ground during excavations for a massive new rail project in London which might hold the bodies of some 50,000 people who were killed by the "Black Death" plague more than 650 years ago.

Thirteen skeletons, laid out in two careful rows, were found 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) below the road in the Farringdon area of central London by researchers working on the 16 billion pound ($24 billion) Crossrail project.

Historical records had indicated the area, described as a "no man's land", had once housed a hastily established cemetery for victims of the bubonic plague which killed about the third of England's population following its outbreak in 1348.

"At this early stage, the depth of burials, the pottery found with the skeletons and the way the skeletons have been set out, all point towards this being part of the 14th Century emergency burial ground," said Jay Carver, Crossrail's lead archaeologist.

Limited records suggest up to 50,000 victims were buried in less than three years in the Farringdon cemetery as the plague ravaged the capital.

The archaeologists hope that the skeletons, which have been taken away for scientific tests, will shed light on the DNA signature of the plague and confirm the burial dates.

The cemetery find could be the second significant medieval discovery in England recently, after archaeologists confirmed last month they had discovered the remains of King Richard III, who died in battle in 1485, under a car park in central England.

Building works for Crossrail, a new railway link under central London and Europe's largest infrastructure project, have already uncovered skeletons from more than 300 burials at a cemetery near the site of London's notorious psychiatric Bedlam Hospital in the heart of the city of London.

(Reporting by Michael Holden; Editing by Alistair Lyon)

Tony Scott's estate rejects $1 million claim by CAA



By Tim Kenneally

LOS ANGELES (TheWrap.com) - The estate of "Top Gun" director Tony Scott, who took his own life last August at the age of 68, has rejected a claim filed by his former agency, Creative Artists Agency, for a little over $1 million it says are still owed in fees.

The claim, filed in late January, asserted that CAA is owed a 10 percent cut from recent Scott projects, including "Man on Fire," and a cut of Scott's directing and producing fees from "The Taking of Pelham 123."

The claim rejection, which was filed Tuesday in Los Angeles Superior Court, did not state a reason for the rejection.

An attorney for Scott's estate has not yet responded to TheWrap's request for comment.

At the time of CAA's filing, Scott estate spokesman Simon Hall told TheWrap that the filing was "standard legal procedure."

Hall added, "This always happens when an estate is in probate. There are no issues at all between Scott and CAA. They loved each other and, of course, will be paid."

The claim rejection lists Scott's estate value at an estimated $1.25 million.

Scott died after jumping from the Vincent Thomas Bridge in Los Angeles Harbor.

Shark brought to Los Angeles for Kmart commercial dies



By Alex Dobuzinskis

LOS ANGELES (Reuters) - A white tip shark shipped from New York and placed into an outdoor pool for a Kmart commercial in Los Angeles died after showing signs of distress, an official from the animal welfare group that monitored the production said on Thursday.

The American Humane Association (AHA), which certifies film and TV productions with animals, had a representative at the scene of the shoot on March 6 and it says everything possible was done to ensure the 5-foot (1.5 meter) shark's safety.

The shark's death follows longstanding criticism of the use of animals in Hollywood productions. Last year, the horse-racing show "Luck" on HBO was axed after the deaths of three horses used in the drama series.

The animal rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), which said it received details on the shark's death from two on-set whistleblowers, criticized the American Humane Association in a letter to the group over the shark's death.

"Sharks are sensitive animals who, in captivity, require a highly specialised and controlled environment," the PETA letter read. "Given the delicate nature of this species, why would the AHA approve the transport and use of this animal?"

The shark was placed into a 60,000 gallon (227 litre) outdoor tank in the Van Nuys suburb of Los Angeles, said Karen Rosa, senior adviser for the film and television unit of the American Humane Association. She added that was a good amount of water for the fish.

"We honestly don't know why the animal died. It was not being mistreated. It was not being harmed," Rosa said.

Early in the day, the shark seemed to be in good condition, but at one point the association representative noticed it showed signs of distress, Rosa said.

"As far as I know, it was immediately insisted upon that the animal receive specialised aquatic veterinarian care," she said.

Oxygen was pumped into the tank and the shark was given a shot of adrenaline to try to stabilize it before it was transferred to an aquatic compound for care, where it died the same day, Rosa said.

The shoot was for a Kmart commercial, but a representative for the retailer could not disclose the concept behind the television spot.

"We take this matter seriously and safety is always our paramount concern," Howard Riefs, a spokesman for Kmart owner Sears Holdings, said in a statement.

(Reporting by Alex Dobuzinskis; Editing by Cynthia Johnston)

'Lou Grant' actor Ed Asner released from hospital



LOS ANGELES (Reuters) - Actor Ed Asner was released from a Chicago-area hospital on Thursday, two days after leaving the stage during a performance and receiving treatment for exhaustion, the publicist for the former "Lou Grant" television star said.

Asner, 83, was on his way to Los Angeles and was told by doctors to get some rest, Charles Sherman said.

The Emmy-winning actor was hospitalized on Tuesday after appearing disoriented at the start of his one-man show "FDR," in which he plays President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, in Gary, Indiana.

"That's what the doctors surmised, it's exhaustion," Sherman said, adding that Asner has canceled upcoming performances of "FDR" in Milwaukee and Tennessee.

"Ed will resume performing 'FDR' in mid-April, but, of course, we'll have to see how his health is," Sherman said.

Asner, best known for playing the gruff newsman Lou Grant on "The Mary Tyler Moore Show" and spinoff drama series "Lou Grant," poked fun at his health on Twitter.

"Reports of my imminent demise are greatly exaggerated," Asner wrote on the social network on Wednesday. "They tell me I am suffering from exhaustion. Thanks for the good wishes!"

(Reporting by Eric Kelsey; editing by Xavier Briand)

Ang Lee moves into TV after 'Life of Pi' Oscar win



LOS ANGELES (Reuters) - Double Oscar winner Ang Lee is moving over to television after winning the Best Director Academy Award last month for "Life of Pi."

Cable channel FX said on Thursday that the Taiwanese filmmaker will direct the pilot episode of its drama "Tyrant," about an unassuming American family drawn into the affairs of a turbulent Middle Eastern nation.

It is Lee's first venture into directing for television and his first project since 2012's "Life of Pi," the tale of a young Indian boy shipwrecked with a tiger that won four Oscars in February.

Production is due to start in the summer but no broadcast date or casting has been announced. Howard Gordon and Gideon Raff - the team behind Emmy-winning psychological thriller "Homeland" - are the executive producers.

"Ang Lee has demonstrated time and again an ability to present characters with such depth and specificity that they reveal the universal human condition," FX President John Landgraf said in a statement.

Lee, 58, is one of the more versatile directors in the industry, his work ranging from martial arts film "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon" to British literary classic "Sense and Sensibility" and sci-fi action movie "Hulk."

He won his first Oscar in 2006 for directing the gay cowboy drama "Brokeback Mountain."

FX, and TV production company Fox 21, which is producing "Tyrant" along with FX Productions, are all units of News Corp

(Reporting By Jill Serjeant; editing by Xavier Briand)

Pope returns to Rome hotel - to pay bill



By Naomi O'Leary

VATICAN CITY (Reuters) - Pope Francis returned on Thursday to the Church-run residence where he was staying before becoming pontiff, and insisted on paying the bill, despite now effectively being in charge of the business, the Vatican said.

The morning after his election, Francis asked a driver to take him to the clerics' hotel, the Domus Internationalis Paulus VI, where he had stayed during the run-up to this week's secret electoral conclave.

"He wanted to get his luggage and the bags. He had left everything there," a Vatican spokesman told a news briefing.

"He then stopped in the office, greeted everyone and decided to pay the bill for the room ... because he was concerned about giving a good example of what priests and bishops should do."

The spokesman did not disclose the amount of the bill.

Jorge Bergoglio brought with him a reputation for frugality from his native Argentina. The first pope in 1,300 years born outside Europe, he is the first to take the name of St. Francis of Assisi - a gesture of solidarity with the poor from the new leader of an institution long associated with great wealth which is now battling to retain loyalty among its congregations.

Father Pawel Rytel-Andrianik, who lives in the central Rome boarding house where Bergoglio had stayed, told Reuters he was surprised the new pope had insisted on settling his account: "I don't think he needs to worry about the bill," he said.

"The house is part of the Church, and it's his Church now."

Rytel-Andrianik said Bergoglio had been a regular guest: "When we were eating at the table, you wouldn't realise he was a cardinal unless you already knew. He was just like any priest.

"He never asked for a car although he could have done," he recalled. "He always took the metro or walked."

(Additional reporting by Philip Pullella; Editing by Crispian Balmer and Alastair Macdonald)

Argentina's Pope Bergoglio a moderate focused on the poor



By Alejandro Lifschitz

BUENOS AIRES (Reuters) - The first Latin American pope, Argentina's Jorge Bergoglio is a theological conservative with a strong social conscience, known for his negotiating skills as well as a readiness to challenge powerful interests.

He is a modest man from a middle class family who declined the archbishop's luxurious residence to live in a simple apartment and travel by bus.

He was also the main candidate against Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger in the 2005 conclave that elected the German to become Pope Benedict, backed by moderate cardinals looking for an alternative to the then Vatican doctrinal chief.

Described by his biographer as a balancing force, Bergoglio, 76, has monk-like habits, is media shy and deeply concerned about the social inequalities rife in his homeland and elsewhere in Latin America.

"He is absolutely capable of undertaking the necessary renovation without any leaps into the unknown. He would be a balancing force," said Francesca Ambrogetti, who co-authored a biography of Bergoglio after carrying out a series of interviews with him over three years.

"He shares the view that the Church should have a missionary role, that gets out to meet people, that is active ... a Church that does not so much regulate the faith as promote and facilitate it," she added.

"His lifestyle is sober and austere. That's the way he lives. He travels on the underground, the bus, when he goes to Rome he flies economy class."

The former cardinal, the first Jesuit to become pope, was born into a middle-class family of seven, his father an Italian immigrant railway worker and his mother a housewife.

He is a solemn man, deeply attached to centuries-old Roman Catholic traditions as he showed by asking the crowd cheering his election to say the Our Father and Hail Mary prayers.

He spends his weekend in solitude in his apartment outside Buenos Aires.

In his rare public appearances, Bergoglio spares no harsh words for politicians and Argentine society, and has had a tricky relationship with President Cristina Fernandez and her late husband and predecessor, Nestor Kirchner.

TURBULENT TIMES

Bergoglio became a priest at 32, nearly a decade after losing a lung due to respiratory illness and quitting his chemistry studies. Despite his late start, he was leading the local Jesuit community within four years, holding the post of provincial of the Argentine Jesuits from 1973 to 1979.

After six years as provincial, he held several academic posts and pursued further study in Germany. He was appointed auxiliary bishop of Buenos Aires in 1992 and archbishop in 1998.

Bergoglio's career success coincided with the bloody 1976-1983 military dictatorship, during which up to 30,000 suspected leftists were kidnapped and killed -- which prompted sharp questions about his role.

The most well-known episode relates to the abduction of two Jesuits whom the military government secretly jailed for their work in poor neighborhoods.

According to "The Silence," a book written by journalist Horacio Verbitsky, Bergoglio withdrew his order's protection of the two men after they refused to quit visiting the slums, which ultimately paved the way for their capture.

Verbitsky's book is based on statements by Orlando Yorio, one of the kidnapped Jesuits, before he died of natural causes in 2000. Both of the abducted clergymen suffered five months of imprisonment.

"History condemns him. It shows him to be opposed to all innovation in the Church and above all, during the dictatorship, it shows he was very cozy with the military," Fortunato Mallimacci, the former dean of social sciences at the Universidad de Buenos Aires, once said.

His actions during this period strained his relations with many brother Jesuits around the world, who tend to be more politically liberal.

Those who defend Bergoglio say there is no proof behind these claims and, on the contrary, they say the priest helped many dissidents escape during the military junta's rule.

His brother bishops elected him president of the Argentine bishops conference for two terms from 2005 to 2011.

CONSERVATIVE THEOLOGY

In the Vatican, far removed from the dictatorship's grim legacy, this quiet priest is expected to lead the Church with an iron grip and a strong social conscience.

In 2010, he challenged the Argentine government when it backed a gay marriage bill.

"Let's not be naive. This isn't a simple political fight, it's an attempt to destroy God's plan," he wrote in a letter days before the bill was approved by Congress.

Bergoglio has been close to the conservative Italian religious movement Communion and Liberation, which had the backing of Popes John Paul and Benedict as a way to revitalize faith among young people.

Milan Cardinal Angelo Scola, who was believed to have the most support going into the conclave, is also close to the movement, but has taken some distance from it as it got mired in political scandals in Italy.

Bergoglio has addressed the group's annual meeting in Rimini and presented the books of its founder, Rev Luigi Giussani, to readers in Argentina.

His support contrasted to the critical view that another Jesuit, former Milan archbishop Cardinal Carlo Maria Martini, had of Communion and Liberation during his life.

Martini died last year, leaving behind a posthumous interview saying the Church was "200 years behind the times."

Rev Gerard Fogarty, a Jesuit and Church historian at the University of Virginia, said he was "pretty sure I'd never see a Jesuit pope" and was surprised that Bergoglio had been chosen because of the criticism of his stand during the dictatorship.

The Jesuit order was founded in the 16th century to serve the pope in the Counter-Reformation and some members of the Society of Jesus, as the order is officially called, think no Jesuit should ever become pope.

RIVAL CANDIDATE

In the 2005 conclave, Bergoglio emerged as the moderate rival candidate to the conservative Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger, who went on to become Pope Benedict. After that conclave, some commentators spoke of Benedict as "the last European pope" and said the Latin Americans had good chances to win the next time.

According to reports in Italian media, Bergoglio impressed cardinals in the pre-conclave "general congregation" meetings where they discussed problems facing the Church.

Bergoglio, who speaks his native Spanish, Italian and German, was promptly mentioned as a possible head of an important Vatican department but he begged off, saying: "Please, I would die in the Curia."

After the 2005 conclave, a cardinal apparently broke his vow of secrecy and told the Italian magazine Limes that Ratzinger got a solid 47 votes in the first round while Bergoglio got 10 and the rest were scattered among other names.

Votes began to switch in the second voting round the next morning, pushing Ratzinger's count to 65 and Bergoglio's to 35. Limes said the Argentinian was backed by several moderate German, U.S. and Latin American cardinals.

The third round just before lunch went 72 for Ratzinger and 40 for Bergoglio, according to Limes, and the German cardinal clinched it on the fourth round that afternoon with 84 votes.

Bergoglio's tally sank in the fourth round to 26, indicating some supporters had jumped on the Ratzinger bandwagon. "Some apparently concluded this was the way the Holy Spirit was moving the election," one cardinal said after the vote.

(Additional reporting by Damina Wrocklavsy and Tom Heneghan; Editing by Giles Elgood)